Yesterday also marked a special day of accomplishment for me as well.  I have hit my step goal every day for one full year.  The story of how it happened is almost an accident. 

On May 3, 2019 I hit my step goal on my smartwatch—8,000 steps.  (I may have done it days before that but I don’t know for sure, so I officially started counting there.)  It isn’t a crazy goal but for an office worker / professional meeting attender like me, it’s a chore to reach it each day, especially on days that I don’t run, which is the majority of days each week.  As a result, I didn’t consistently hit it or really pay that much attention.  May 4th and 5th were busy and that whole next week brought nice weather and it enticed me to walk more.  From my office at in the University Plaza area, downtown (for lunch, coffee, or meetings) is only a 10-minute walk and possibly through a park along a greenway, or there’s around the 1-mile loop around our subdivision I can walk.  Well after a week of almost unintentionally hitting my goal, my watch sent me a nice congratulatory message!  As I thought about why I hit my goal each day that week, I started thinking how much better I felt about walking more.  So the challenge was on.  A few more weeks turned into a month and by then I had set my sights on a whole year.

My first smartwatch didn’t survive the duration so this past month I had to get a new one.

1. Get There (Way) Early & Come Back Late

What’s So Great About It:  The middle part of the day (10am to 4pm) has two things you want to avoid in a desert park–sun exposure and crowds.  Sun exposure not only can be miserable hot and produce a sunburn, but it also washes out picture.  Avoid it at all cost!  Crowds can make life miserable by filling up parking at trailheads, doing stupid stuff that make you stark-raving mad, and ruin your pictures.  Avoid both at all cost…be early…and late.  By arriving before sunrise you’ll have fewer people to deal with and the sun will be your friend.  Bring a headlamp and it’s amazing how different the desert will seem. 

We did this two mornings in Arches NP, hiking to Delicate Arch and then Landscape Arch a few days later, both to see the sun rise on the arches.  One time we were early enough to spot shooting stars and take this shot of Double Arch.  We were out by 10am and were so glad to be!  If you want to double down, go back for sunset.  The crowds have thinned and the light is tremendous!  You can easily eat a late breakfast, snacks for lunch and/or and early or late dinner to accommodate this “non-traditional” schedule.  And if you plan right, you won’t lose too much sleep.

2.  Fill Your Mid-Day With Side Trips

What’s So Great About It:  In the vicinity of Arches NP are several other great (less crowded) options to fill your mid-day if you follow tip #1.  Once you leave Arches you aren’t out of the beautiful scenery of southeast Utah!  Several days we took a side trip to a different unit of Canyonlands National Park.  Pictured here is the end of the 1mi trail to Grand View Overlook in the Island In The Sky District of Canyonlands.  What a great hike!

The Needles District of Canyonlands NP is a bit further but not bad.  Stop at Newspaper Rock (well preserved petroglyphs) and Wilson’s Arch (right along Highway 191).  We didn’t get to see it, but Corona Arch looks awesome just outside of Moab.  On the way to Island In The Sky is Dead Horse Point State Park (your NPS pass won’t work here) that is worth the stop.  Also, during the summer there’s trips of all kind that will put you on the Colorado River the runs between Arches NP and Moab.  There’s plenty to do where the crowds are not.

3.  Stay Close To It All (SpringHill Suites/Fairfield Inn)

What’s So Great About It:  Staying in the right spot will make all this easier to do.  Just a few miles from the entrance gate, on the north side of the Colorado River is a brand new SpringHill Suites.  We stayed there but it shares an awesome pool will a Fairfield Inn.  Not only is the location ideal, but the free breakfast is quick and the pool is a great spot to just chill, especially if you have a family in tow.  (If you don’t the 4 hot tubs, dozens of “secluded” seating areas, and 3 fire pits still make a great spot to hang out.)  The pool was never too crowded and it is heated so no matter what time of year you are there, it’ll be great.  Grab a 6 pack from Moab Brewing and enjoy something here or just catch a mid-day nap close to the park.

4.  Burn Your Downtime In Moab

What’s So Great About It:  Whatever your thing is, you’ll find something to do in Moab.  This gateway city to Arches NP is literally right on the edge of the park so it’s close.  It’s easy to navigate and not big enough to seem like isn’t just focused on being near the park.  We killed time in the art galleries, random shops (including the rock shop pictured here) and restaurants (like the awesome Pasta Jay’s).  Of course, to be considered a good park town, you have to a brewery.  Moab is there!  Moab Brewing had a atmosphere and a good selection of beers including the Dead Horse Amber Ale which was good enough to earn coveted spots in our cooler to go home with us.

5. Get Your Passes & Permits Early

What’s So Great About It:  To get into the labyrinth of rock in the foreground, you have to have a permit…and they go quick!  We were there in March (off-peak) and stopped by the Visitor Center early the first day only to snag the last 4 open slots for 3 days later.  A very limited number of people are allowed into the area called the Fiery Furnace to protect the environment and the visitor experience.  (With such a limited number, this is a great mid-day activity, as long as it isn’t the heat of summer.)  The Fiery Furnace is a great spot to explore around the rock spires and slot canyons, generally following a vaguely marked patch to wander your way out.  With the area not being too big, if you have a map and a GPS you’ll really have to try to get lost.  But leave yourself plenty of time to just explore!

Also, when crowds to get high, especially during the peak seasons (and you aren’t as early in the morning as you should be), a little bit of planning can get your through the line of traffic that cues up at the entrance gates.  If you don’t want to wait up to an hour just to get in, be sure to have a National Parks and Federal Recreational Lands Pass, otherwise known as an America The Beautiful Pass to get through a special line at Arches NP.  This $80 pass gets you in to all national park units and other federal lands so it’s going to be useful.  Get it!

6.  Go In The Off-Peak Season (especially early March)

What’s So Great About It:  Arches NP receives 1.5 million visitor each year.  How do you avoid the crowds?  There’s the usual tips about “it’s nice park in the winter too”, and the ones I gave you about arrive early and/or late, but there’s this other balance.  It’s the balance between crowds and temperatures.  Come too early in the year and you’ll freeze to death, come too late and you’ll bake to a crisp along with what seems like the other 1.5 million people there that day.  The intersection of that sweet spot is early March or late October.  (We went with early March.)  You’ll find cool mornings/nights that need a down coat and layers, but once the sun comes up it’ll warm to a nice day.  As a bonus, sunrise/sunset isn’t so early/late that you can’t make it out for either.  The crowds are lighter (but still there, like in the upper left side of this photo up the trail to Delicate Arch) but if you follow the rules above, you’ll be set.

7.  Don’t Miss The Iconic Arches

What’s So Great About It:   Now that we know how and when to go, let’s dig into what you have to see while there!   They will draw the most crowds, but if you play it right you’ll be able to see the iconic arches of Arches NP.  Delicate Arch is such a Utah icon that for years it’s the back drop of their license plates.  If anything is that scenic, you have to see it!  And don’t cut it short by going to the viewpoint.  Take the 3mi. RT hike to actually see the thing up close.  Getting a good shot in between people wandering out to it another challenge in and of itself.  

Although it is further into the park, don’t skip Devil’s Garden and the 1.6mi. RT hike to Landscape Arch.  This 300+ foot opening makes it the longest arch in North America, and you never know what moment might be its last.  In 1991 a huge slab of it gave way and in 2017, a nearby arch collapsed completely.  These ribbons of remaining sandstone are just a geologic blink away from being gone forever.  See it while you can!

Also on the park all-star list is Double Arch with the tallest opening in the park.  It’s in The Windows section of the park all of which is easy to get to.  If you only have one day, hit these three (Landscape at sunrise, The Windows area after that, and Delicate at sunset). 

8.  Pick Out An “Off The Beaten Path” Spot To Explore

What’s So Great About It:   There’s a whole park out there and just one park road into it.  There’s lots of places that offer some off the beaten path experiences.  (Not as many as say Canyonlands or Capitol Reef, but hey, Arches is also a top 10 visited park fairly close to an interstate too!)  

For us it was The Fiery Furnace (because we snagged a permit), but we had back up plans too.  Any of them look like good ideas.  There early or late and there aren’t crowds?  Try hiking the 2mi. RT at Park Avenue.  If you couldn’t drag your butt outta bed but still got there before 10am, skip the crowds at the first stops and head straight Sand Dune Arch.  It’s only a 3/10th of a mile hike down into a very approachable area.  Another, more daring option we considered was to take the unpaved Salt Valley road up to a 3.4mi. RT hike to Tower Arch but the NPS had the road close for maintenance.

Sunriver Brewing Company

What’s So Great About It:  They have this pub on Galveston Street, right near the river.  And it has a wide storefront that is full of roll up doors that are often open.  It’s like a moth to flame!  The front area was crowded so we found a spot in the back and got it to trying beer.  The great thing about their menu is their appetizers were unique, delicious, and shareable!

Beer:  Fuzztail Hefeweizen (ABV 5.0 | IBU 20)

Other Items of Note…

As my son and I were running together this week, an extended lull hit our conversation. It was a nice pause that created just the sound of some paced breathing and quick footfall. As soon as it seemed like it had gone on long enough, he said, “So Dad, any progress on getting more trails for Springfield.” Good question bud! I went on to explain that we work on making a little progress each day. I don’t know if he really understood what I was talking about but it was another moment where we personally connected around a shared interest.

The trails around Springfield have been an impactful part of our family’s time together. They are how we get outdoors, get some fresh air, see new things, and take in lots of great spots around our community. This wouldn’t be possible without the long-term dedication of Ozark Greenways and citizens committed to supporting trails. When you combine some thoughtful development with such an approachable natural environment you end up creating some memorable spots.

Luckily, I always have my phone with me and after my son and I remarked about how captivating an autumn-drenched scene along Jordan Creek Greenway looked this afternoon, I decided to officially pick some of my all-time favorite stretches and my random photographs of our experiences on them.  These “spots” are probably just 1/10 of mile long or so but the are so memorable, they make the memory that sticks.  They create the character that we remember when we think of the trail. 

1. Jordan Creek Greenway

Where: Right through the heart of Jordan Valley Park (just tucked in behind the fountains)

What’s So Great About It: You are actually going between a popular park with an interactive water feature and a (*sigh* still there) metal salvage operation along a rail line yet with some great trees and a winding path you feel like you could be in a hidden corner of Central Park. Add the fall foliage and you a have a scene that’s Instagram ready!

2. Galloway Creek Greenway

Where: North of Sequiota Park and just past the Lacuna St. crosswalk

What’s So Great About It: Galloway is our prized community greenway and at times can be buzzing with all kinds of users. But in this spot the tree canopy and undergrowth here are robust enough to make you feel like you were just transported to a magical forest. Even on a bright sunny day direct sunlight barely makes it through giving you that sense of urban escape.

3. South Creek Greenway

Where: Right off the parking lot in the heart of Close Memorial Park (near the hosta garden)

What’s So Great About It: South Creek has amazing spots all along it. And several of them could get honorable mentions, but for a top 10 list, this sculpted landscape of Close Memorial Park gets the nod. The gardens all around the park are beautiful, but you’ll never pass this grove of trees without seeing someone hanging out in them. And with the newfound popularity hammocks are enjoying, this natural setup is too good to pass up.

4. James River Greenway

Where: This is part of the trail but technically it is Timbercrest Street running along the river, just west of the Old Iron Bridge crossing

What’s So Great About It: The Old Iron Bridge gets all the love on this trail and for good reason. But the new Trail of Honor portion of the James River Greenway just opened recently and while this connection between it and the bridge is a roadway open to cars, great trail markings and very low traffic counts make you feel like you own the place. Add in a great tree canopy, the river along one side, unique houses up the hillside on the other, and an perfect downhill slope and it makes for an experience where everyone is smiling at the bottom. (That is, until they remember the return trip is long uphill push. But, hey, it builds character, right!?)

5. Fulbright Spring Greenway

Where: Just north of the Truman Elementary School Park, heading down towards the South Dry Sac River

What’s So Great About It: Coming in the next few months will be a new segment of this trail closing a key gap and creating a nearly 7 mile continuous trail. While this section has been here for a while, many Springfieldians (including me before this summer) are completely unaware of this gem. There are lots of beautiful spots along the trail but it ducks in and out of forested spots. During a long run on an already hot summer morning, this long stretch of woods was the perfect respite.

6. Wilson’s Creek Greenway

Where:  The relatively new stretch south of Farm Road 156, before you get to the wooded area that heads down to South Creek

What’s So Great About It:  The fact this trail even exists is a testament to how awesome Ozark Greenways is and how visionary individual Springfieldians can be.  The cows have the right of way here (and if they don’t, they don’t know that) because this 10 foot wide strip of asphalt trail runs right through their pasture.  You have to open and close the cattle gates at each end and dodge some occasional “trail chips” the herd leaves behind but it’s all worth it for a long continuous stretch of trail.

7. Rutledge Wilson Farm Park Connector
    (to Wilson’s Creek Greenway)

Where: On the west side of the farm park, right as you near Wilson’ Creek

What’s So Great About It: I’ll admit it, I’m a sucker for big trees. Bring me a majestic tree alongside a trail, and it’s solid top 10 material. This beech tree (I believe) is right off the trail and on a well-maintained spot of grass. If we have to wait for the slowpoke half of the family to finally make it back, soaking up the shade and the listening to the calming rustle of the leaves in the breeze makes it all worth it. As if that isn’t enough, nearby Wilson’s Creek has a great little spot take in as well.

8. Frisco Highline Trail

Where: Just north of Junction Cafe where the trail turns to crushed limestone, between the crossings on Farm Road 81 and Farm Road 60 near mile marker 10

What’s So Great About It: Look, it’s a long trail, so it’s gonna get a few spots on the list. With 35 miles of pure rail-trail opportunities, there’s plenty to chose from. This spot is similar to a lot of them, it just happened to be photo-worthy enough on a trip down the trail one day. Regardless of your spot, these long, straight views through the tunnel of the tree canopy make you really feel the legacy of the old rail bed.

9. Frisco Highline Trail

Where:  A little ways south of Walnut Grove, between the crossings on Farm Road 65 and Farm Road 36 near mile marker 13

What’s So Great About It:  While the trees can be an important part of a special kind of place along a trail, so can the wide open spaces.  As with lots of rail-trails the vegetation along the trail can form a tunnel of isolation.  So the moment you hit a wide open view you are quickly taken in by the big sky all around you.  If the clouds are putting on a show, the whole experience gets even better.  At least the trail is straight you won’t wander too far while staring off into the wild blue yonder.

10. Frisco Highline Trail

Where: The crossing over the Little Sac River near mile marker 23

What’s So Great About It: The tallest and longest bridge on the whole greenways system has to get some love. Bridges are just cool and this one is a great spot for a turnaround to head back toward Springfield. But, not before taking in the views of the river below and maybe grabbing a few snacks from the bag.

The great thing about the trails around SGF is charming little spots are everywhere.  Get out and find your own.  Try new trails, venture new places, and remember to throw a little love to Ozark Greenways because you never know which new trail they’ll be working to develop next!

I know this might all sound weird to some but the past week has been a little sad since I (we) had to say goodbye to what had become like a member of our adventurous little family. After 191,177 miles over 13 years and 3 months, our 2005 Ford Explorer finally bit the dust. The transmission went bad and it was $4,500 to replace it with even a reman one. It just wasn’t worth it.

That vehicle has been through it all with our family! We bought it new just as we got pregnant with our son in August of 2005. It’s had very few issues (other than normal maintenance) and we’ve certainly put it through the paces…heavy snow storms, wilderness backroads, cross-country trips that took it to 25 different states, and through it all it kept us safe and happy every time. We’ll miss the comfy ride for the 4 of us plus gear and a dog, the off-road ruggedness that new SUVs just don’t have, and the occasional “whoop” of the friendly ghost that inhabited it since we bought it.

I “sold” it to a dude that works at the Ford dealership who plans to take a transmission out of his similar (inoperable) Explorer and put it in ours so maybe it’ll have a few more miles to roll down the road. I hope so. It’s a good little car. And I’m saddened to see it go. If the next one (another Explorer) lives up to the standard set by Granola (our daughter’s pet name for it), I’ll be pleasantly surprised.

I scanned through my phone and found a bunch of photos to tell the story of our Explorer.